I get that. I respect that. And I even can appreciate where they're coming from.
That does not mean I'm happy about it.
ESBs are a very underrepresented style in American Beer Culture. There is a booming market for Pale Ales, the entry-level, often lower bitterness and less hoppy beers, ranging from the most novice of brew swillers to long-time beer enthusiasts. Their alcohol content tends to be lower, hovering around 5%. There is also an exploding demand for IPAs, or India Pale Ales, over the past several years. IPAs are the embodiment of everything people who don't like beer tend to not like: bitter, floral, and hoppy. In that same vein, they are also stronger than the traditional Pale Ale, often ranging from 6-7%, and with the related "Double IPA" style ranging from 8-12%. Recently, IPAs have really enjoyed a boom in popularity, and, like their Pale Ale brethren, are being brewed by pretty much every brewer in the business of selling beer. And with great reason: both are fantastic, and can be a great profile for hop varietals and wonderfully floral aromas.
If you want hops, you go for an IPA; if you want something lighter and less-hoppy, you go for a Pale. The ease of recognition, as well as a basic indication of what you'll be getting when you order one of them, has really both facilitated the growth of those styles. It has also, however, softened the demand for the middle ground between the two beers that has long existed. And in this middle ground exists what I consider to be a happy medium: the ESB.
ESBs originated (like Pales and IPAs alike) in British pub culture, often being served out of fresh casks from a hand-pump from a keg located in a cellar. They, like Pales and IPAs, have a range of Alcohol by Volume (ABV), but tended to range from the very mild (3%) to the stronger, more-special varietals (6%). The ESBs often brought a biscuity, cookie-like malt sweetness that is often more readily present than in IPAs, yet still paired with a healthy dose of hops. These casks of beer had a very rapid turnover time, often lasting only a few days, meaning the beer was quite fresh. Due to that freshness, the hop character (which can diminish rapidly over time) was floral and flavorful, but often without the higher alcohol levels that IPAs bring. It really is like a best of both worlds: the flavor of an IPA with the alcohol levels of a Pale and a bit more maltiness. Delicious, right?
The beer culture in America, however, seems to have largely overlooked the ESB. Which is highly unfortunate, in my estimation. Why might it's success be hampered here in the states? One theory I've discussed with friends relates to the fact that in America, we have a tendency to want to do things big. The bigger, the better. In a lot of cases, this leads to some absolutely stunning, world-class, there-is-nay-better-beer-anywhere-else-in-the-world beers, but in other cases, it has led us away from some real gems of lower-level beers.
So, when I heard that Deschutes, maker of one of my absolute favorite ESBs (not to mention one of the only breweries to really make an ESB period) was discontinuing their distribution of it, I was heartbroken. The market had spoken: the ESB isn't respected.
In honor of Bachelor's demise, I decided to brew an ESB of my own recently, in a very traditional British style. While I haven't come up with a true name for it yet, I think "Honorable," "Middle Ground," or "Common Ground" are fitting titles. It's fighting the noble fight. A fight that needs fighting, in my estimation. I hope to bring my ESB to different events, hopefully sharing it with some friends and acquaintances, hoping that they too can share in the love of the ESB.
I'll post my tasting notes for my ESB, along with the recipe, sometime soon. I've had it a few times already and I have to say: think I may have to keg this one next time. Yum.
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